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Innovative Excellence

Jan 08, 2012 No Comments by

It’s fair to say that we have an abundance of restaurants to choose from here in Marbella. Whether you fancy flavoursome tapas whilst admiring our charming coastline, or a spicy Indian on a Saturday night snuggled on the sofa watching X Factor, we really do have it all at our fingertips. However, dining at Acacia is like something I have never encountered before, that I will keep with me forever as a once in a lifetime experience.

Puerto Banus is the most sought after location, with an array of elegance and charm. It is here we find Acacia, a unique restaurant with a difference. Named after the affluent Australian Acacia Tree, which flourishes in temperate climates, and has most recently been found in remote locations here on the Costa del Sol. Chef Victor Garvey, the creator and driving force behind Acacia, will be using this resourceful tree to experiment with in his dishes, the sap and bark are both edible. This name is also close to his heart, as it will be the middle name of his soon to be born daughter.

Constantly experimenting with flavours, textures and senses, Victor’s vision is to “return to what food should be all about”, no tomfoolery or convolutions here! Using simple, natural ingredients, all of which function within the dish. This food is truly for the epicurean, searching for something different, looking for excitement in each mouthful, wanting to savour each flavour. In his own words, he is in a continuous pursuit of experimental and innovative recipes and combinations. Working for many Michelin star restaurants in the past, he is bursting with talent and has a devotion to his passion.

All ingredients used in the inventive and experimental dishes are fresh each day, all sourced from the best places available. The majority of the visionary menu consists of meat and fish dishes, the latter sourced from Porto Muinos in northern Spain and local small purveyors, so as to not ruin the balance and marriage of the flavours. Victor prefers to work with fish, as it is more versatile, compared to the complexity and inordinateness of red meat. That’s not to say that Acacia doesn’t cater to the meat lovers out there; Victor can even create a personal menu using an ingredient of your choice if you contact the restaurant two days in advance. What eateries in Marbella can boast that?

Clean and minimalistic, not even the décor distracts you from the sincerity of each dish; all ingredients used are apparent within each bite, dancing on your tongue, present for a purpose. The character of the restaurant is only enhanced by its muted chocolate tones and soft cream hues.

Our first dish sang to our senses, as all were catered for in the Oysters in the Deep Ocean. Victor wanted to create a feeling of the profound ocean, with the oysters in their natural environment. Boy did he deliver! Assuming that the first sense to be heightened would be sight, personally the fresh scent of the sea escaping from the seaweed blew me away. Next was touch, as it took all my strength not to tear the dish apart to marvel at the hidden sea treasures beneath the grandiose oyster shell. Closely followed by sound, as there beside our plate, lay another crustacean emitted lapping waves crashing against serrated rocks. Following this was sight, as I was taken aback in awe of the beauty and complexity of the dish, along with a mist of seawater defusing from the undercarriage of a rocky mystery. Lastly came taste, which completed the sensual journey. The seaweed and dry vermouth emulsion that coated the succulent tempura oysters was creamy and deluxe, and the toasted walnuts and picked saline vegetables combined perfectly with the rich compounds.

Following this epic dish was cigalas and local plump shrimp, scattered with a bitter herb salad, drizzled with preserved lemon, confit garlic and roasted purple potato. Also, adding to the beautifully presented work of art was a prawn head, filled with the natural juices of the crustacean and a brandy reduction, which only enhanced the depth of flavours. To complete our journey, tangy tuna tartare encased in a cone of cucumber, with fresh cream, dill and tomato water gel. Each composite of flavour and texture married together faultlessly, and ended what only can be described as an expedition of the aesthetics.

We walked out of Acacia, satisfied and boasting food connoisseurs, my friends are almost sick of me gloating about and praising this truly unique gastronomic voyage. I take with me Victor’s mantra, “imagination is more interesting than knowledge”, and with that, I ponder just how that decorate shell generated such veracious wave noises.

Acacia Restaurant


Plaza Marina Banus, Bloque 2, Local 2A, Puerto Banus
ES-29601 Marbella, Malagá

0034 693 041 125 | www.acacia-restaurant.com

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